Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/204004
jbalch - Posted - 04/07/2011: 11:00:51
I got a couple of Bill Miller's new dyed calfskins to try. The first is a brown one. It is going on an old Kay banjo that belongs to a good freind who plays in a jug band called The Jake Leg Stompers. jakelegstompers.com/ The brown color will give his banjo a very cool look for this old timey band.
Here are the first photos of the head freshly mounted today. I trimmed the edges roughly. After it is fully dry, I'll remove the hoop and trim it more closely. More photos to come...
Edited by - jbalch on 04/07/2011 11:10:06
Quartermaster James - Posted - 04/07/2011: 11:08:36
quote:
Originally posted by jbalch
After it is fully dry, I'll remove the hoop and trim it more closely.
Nice looking skin there. I didn't know you could pull the hoop and trim the more closely after it's dried. Hmmm...think I have a project for this weekend now...
Quartermaster James - Posted - 04/07/2011: 11:10:35
quote:
Originally posted by Quartermaster James
quote:
Originally posted by jbalch
After it is fully dry, I'll remove the hoop and trim it more closely.
Nice looking skin there. I didn't know you could pull the hoop and trim the skin more closely after it's dried. Think I have some "clean-up" work to attend to now...
jbalch - Posted - 04/07/2011: 11:50:09
I usually trim the hide above the tension hoop while it is wet. I am careful not to cut too close to the head and risk damaging it. I remove the hoop after the skin is very dry (at least 24 hours). Then I trim it close to the crown with scissors (see photo of another finished ~ trimmed head below). I can spray it with waterproofer and stamp my logo on the bottom at that time too.
I then re-mount the head with no additional wetting.
Other folks do this differently I know...but this method works for me.
Edited by - jbalch on 04/07/2011 11:59:47
rudykizuty - Posted - 04/07/2011: 13:29:30
Yummy. Reminds me of pumpkin pie.
Edited by - rudykizuty on 04/07/2011 13:30:02
jbalch - Posted - 04/07/2011: 17:27:29
Next steps: trim the edges and stamp logo...photos attached.
Edited by - jbalch on 04/07/2011 17:28:12
dickinnorwich - Posted - 04/07/2011: 18:24:52
quote:
Originally posted by jbalch
I usually trim the hide above the tension hoop while it is wet. I am careful not to cut too close to the head and risk damaging it. I remove the hoop after the skin is very dry (at least 24 hours). Then I trim it close to the crown with scissors (see photo of another finished ~ trimmed head below). I can spray it with waterproofer and stamp my logo on the bottom at that time too.
I then re-mount the head with no additional wetting.
Other folks do this differently I know...but this method works for me.
"I can spray it with waterproofer....."
As you know, on your recommendation I've ordered my first skin head from Bill so these photos are very instructive and I thank you for them. But I wasn't aware of the "waterproofer" step. May I ask about the product you use for this?
jbalch - Posted - 04/07/2011: 18:37:55
I buy a leather waterproofing spray at a shoe store. I've used different brands.
jbalch - Posted - 04/08/2011: 11:23:34
I completed the set-up early this morning. It looks and sounds great. I think Sam will be pleased.
These dyed skins are a cool idea for folks wanting a old-looking hide.
August - Posted - 04/08/2011: 14:34:17
I found that I had to soak the dyed head a bit longer to get it limp enough. After that it went on fine.
DEmery - Posted - 04/08/2011: 15:16:18
John are you going to post a sound sample. Don't think I have heard an old Kay like that or seen one with a leather head. David E.
jbalch - Posted - 04/08/2011: 15:55:23
quote:
Originally posted by August
I found that I had to soak the dyed head a bit longer to get it limp enough. After that it went on fine.
August: I did the same...but not too much longer. I soaked this one about two or three minutes ..tops.
Judging from the appearance, I think these hides start out as the type that are fairly translucent and mottled. Those skins are sometimes stiff compared to the all-white bleached ones. The good news is...they can be very tough and strong. They take a lot of tension and seem to hold it well. I have a translucent/ mottled calfskin on my Sagmoen travel banjo (not dyed). That skin felt similar to this one when I mounted it. The Sagmoen head is very tight and has been dependable in all kinds of conditions. Because of that, I did not waterproof this hide.
David: Sam is picking this banjo up soon. I don't know if I'll have time to record anything before he takes it home. This old Kay is nice. It has a narrow mahogany neck (good-looking wood) and a deep resonator (to look like a Vega Vox). The deep resonator gives it a cool throaty tone. The string spacing feels a little pinched because of the narrow neck. All-in-all, this is a fine old banjo...it sounds really great!
Edited by - jbalch on 04/08/2011 15:59:52
Tim13 - Posted - 04/08/2011: 16:52:06
I've read some of the threads about natural hide heads recently, and kept hearing about the maintenance involved. I've also read about situations such as playing outdoors (under cover of course) when it's raining at say a BG fesitival causing the head tension to deteriorate. Does the waterproof step eliminate this, or at least make it less of a worry?
Tim
jbalch - Posted - 04/08/2011: 17:47:26
Playing outside (even under cover) in a rainstorm...is tough with a hide head. Water proofing spray may slow or reduce sinking due to high humidity. But it will not eliminate the problem. I don't play in those conditions often. In fact, most of my banjos stay here at home and/or are played in controlled environments. That is not to say that I don't carry instruments out at all...I'm just not doing it all the time or professionally. I usually adjust the tension seasonally (tighten as the humid summer approches...and loosen a bit as the dry heat comes on in the fall). I also sometimes switch to a slightly taller bridge in the summer when it is really hot and muggy here. As I mentioned before, I use calfskin on the travel banjo I carry a lot. It remains reliable in a range of conitions (it rides in the trunk of my car many weeks of the year).
I have one bluegrass instrument set up with a mylar head...mainly because I like the sound of that banjo set up that way. But there are indeed good reasons that mylar is so widely accepted. It is very convenient and dependable. It also sounds great for some applications.
But personally I love the tone of hide heads. I learned to mount them myself and enjoy the process. I keep a few spares on hand. I've only ever broken one (so far). When I break another...I'll have fun swapping it.
Edited by - jbalch on 04/08/2011 17:50:52
