Yours is sure pretty. Just ordered mine from John yesterday and hopefully it is as nice visually. Looking forward and dreading to receiving my head as I don't particularly want to mess with taking the old head off and putting the new one on. But I guess that is part of 'banjofever'.
Does John recommend doing anything to the head...spray, oil? I won't get his recommendation until I get the head and I am just sorting through the things to do and not to do from all those who commented on this site.
18 Comments |
 | westsideryan says: 6/20/2014 2:45:54 PM
No. I am sure that the waterproofing eventually wears off, but I would not suggest spraying the head while mounted on the rim. It might actually penetrate better, but if I remember correctly a number of the water proofing spays contain things that might not be good to get on metal. Maybe John has some better info as I am pretty sure that he sprays his while mounted. I was the same with the "looking forward and dreading", but I am glad that I took the leap! Replacing the head isn't all that hard. I think that people (myself included) often over think the process because of the fear of breaking the head, but if you take it slow and go about a 1/8 turn at a time and make sure your tension hoop is even all the way around you should be fine. I made myself an 11" "ruler" (I have a 12" rim) so that I could use the Steve Davis method to help help make sure that I didn't over tighten the head. Steve just chimed in another post and suggested that 2 quarters or a quarter and 2 dimes "might" be an ideal tension for a 12" rim. I am currently at a snug quarter and a dime when measured at the side of the bridge. Anyway, have fun! I am pretty sure that you'll love your new head!
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 | westsideryan says: 6/20/2014 2:51:03 PM
PM me youf email address and I'll email you a scan of what John sent me. I am pretty sure that the info that John sent me is still actually somewhere on the hangout, so I am hoping that he doesn't mind me emailing you a copy.!
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 | Tom Berghan says: 6/20/2014 4:48:09 PM
Get an aerosol can of silicon waterproofing for leather. You can buy it online or at almost any shoe repair shop. Take the mounted hide and spray it lightly and evenly from a distance of about 12 inches. Don't make it wet with the spray - don't blob it on. Just a nice light even coating on BOTH sides. Don't spray it on the rim. Do it away from your banjo. Do it outside if the wind is calm. Don't do it in the house. It would make your floor slippery and you don't want to breath the spray. But it isn't too dangerous or anything - you just don't want to breath silicone spray! It's no big deal. Very easy.
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 | Tom Berghan says: 6/20/2014 4:51:19 PM
Oh - and NO oil! NO OIL! And do not worry, the silicon spray will not darken the color and it won't stink. You won't even know it is on the hide. It dries within seconds.
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 | westsideryan says: 6/20/2014 5:07:40 PM
How often do you do this? I believe (pretty sure) that the waterproofing spray that I have for shoes (Garde Rain And Shine) is silicone free.
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 | Tom Berghan says: 6/20/2014 5:24:46 PM
I just do it before I install the mounted head onto the rim. Silicon spray - good stuff - I'm really sure this is what John Balch uses. It does not hurt the hide and is not detectable on the hide head. There are various brands. I don't know anything about Garde Rain & Stain Repellant.
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 | bhniko says: 6/21/2014 8:42:23 AM
Not afraid of changing heads as I have done it a few times...it's just the restringing and waiting for the Nylgut to quit stretching. A couple of questions...Has anyone used the drum dial method and what settings do you suggest. Two...debating to change Nylgut over to gut strings...any help with my debate?
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 | bhniko says: 6/21/2014 8:49:36 AM
Ooopps. Just went back to a link of John Balch and found out that drum dials do not work on skin heads. I will have to try the Steve Davis way. I am using one of his bridges and have to ask him what he recommends for gut strings. Westsideryan...what bridge and string are you using?
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 | Tom Berghan says: 6/21/2014 9:43:21 AM
Gut Strings: gamutmusic.com/strings/
The string makers name is Dan Larson. He's been making strings for many years - luves in Duluth. Give him a call. I have sent several people to Dan and all of them have come back happy. His number is 1-888-724-8099
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 | Tom Berghan says: 6/21/2014 10:40:13 AM
Gut Strings: gamutmusic.com/strings/
The string makers name is Dan Larson. He's been making strings for many years - luves in Duluth. Give him a call. I have sent several people to Dan and all of them have come back happy. His number is 1-888-724-8099
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 | westsideryan says: 6/21/2014 1:14:29 PM
I don't think that I'd be of any help because I am using Ome heavies. And right now I have a Sampson walnut bridge on it.
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 | bhniko says: 6/21/2014 1:40:53 PM
Thanks guys. I read where Clifford Essex was making gut strings under Rob Mackillops name. They did but discontinued making them so Rob is trying to have Damian Dlugolecki <damianstrings.com> formulate the strings. Damian has the reputation of producing high quality gut strings for all instruments except the banjo...but may be a bit pricey for some of us. Will check out Mr. Larson.
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 | Tom Berghan says: 6/21/2014 6:20:03 PM
Gut strings are no different for guitar, banjo, lute, et cetera. Just tell Dan you want them for banjo and that you don't want the tension too light because you play clawhammer. He will ask you the exact length from nut to bridge and ask you what the pitches are (the tuning). He has put sets together for banjo players before. Very easy. You will want the 4th wound with wire and that IS historical. That what was often used in the minstrel era. Sometimes they did not need a wound 4th because around 1850 the scales of their banjos were usually much longer than our banjos today.
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 | bhniko says: 6/23/2014 11:55:16 AM
Tom...ordering strings from Dan. Seems like a nice person and responds so quickly. Just curious what OME strings are...just another brand made by OME banjos?
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 | westsideryan says: 6/23/2014 12:18:46 PM
I originally ended up using them because the heavies were the same gauges as the custom sets that I was putting together for myself from single strings. I think that they might be the only strings that are available these days with chenilled ends which seem to help control overtones.
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 | westsideryan says: 6/23/2014 12:20:46 PM
Other than the chenilled ends they are just another brand of banjo strings.
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 | bhniko says: 6/24/2014 2:44:25 PM
Thanks for the info. GamutMusic has a wonderful description and manufacturing of gut strings is you are interested. GamutMusic.com I could not figure out how to make a link from here so just cut and paste if interested.
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 | bhniko says: 7/2/2014 10:16:27 AM
Tom, Installed my John Balch goatskin head...and waiting for my gut strings from Dan. Have to tweek it to get the higher notes from being a bit flat with my old Aquila strings. What bridge would you recommend for skin heads? Now using a Steve Davis bridge (and happy) but I don't think the string slots will accommodate gut strings.
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