I have recently returned to using hide heads after playing on Mylar heads for a number of years. I got two beautifully made hide heads from John Balch, both made from similar grade materials, and installed them on two of my banjos.
After reading the threads in this group about head tensioning, I tensioned the heads using tap tones and the Steve Davis straightedge-and-quarter method as well as my ears, and also a subjective “how tight does it feel to my thumb?” method.
Both banjos sound great right now, but the straightedge-and-quarter test would seem to suggest that one of the heads is too tight. I don't quite know how to interpret the results below. I don't want to break the head. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
12 Comments |
 | jmoathout says:
2/10/2015 12:52:07 PM
How does the banjo#2 SOUND to YOU when the head is LOOSENED to allow a quarter passage. Also the lenght of the straightedge matters - as might the diameter of the head. I'm not sure about the diameter though, as I use a gauge Steve made for me for both 11" and 12. The gauge 8" long. The design was based to replicate the tension I was getting using something like a 10" gauge with a quarter passage - which tone I like. Steve's guges were developed with Bluegrass in mind, and we went through a couple of iterations before coming up with the present design. He also made another just like mine for another CH player, with skin head, I believe. Why not drop Steve a line. I find the gauge easy to use, and sometimes it tells me to loosen the had a bit - and the tone then sound better to me. I like mellow.
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 | PeterKSiegel says:
2/10/2015 1:00:47 PM
Thanks jmoathout.
When the head of banjo # 2 is loosened to allow for a quarter, it sounds (and feels) pretty flabby. They are both 11 inch heads and I'm using a ten inch straightedge.
I actually do have a tension gauge made by Steve Davis, and it is giving me results similar to the straightedge test (banjo # 1 showing to be right and banjo #2 showing to be too tight.
Everything seems to be pointing to the tension of banjo # 2 being right, but both the straightedge and the tension gauge seem to disagree.
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 | Tom Berghan says:
2/10/2015 1:01:33 PM
What is the diameter of both banjos? If one is 11" and the other 12" then the gap will be different.
But if it sounds good, don't worry about it. Remember that you objective is to have the banjo ring out and be bell-like. Observing the gap is just to observe an attribute where the head sounds good. Then you will have some attribute data to find your way back to that special mojo place. That's all. Make sense?
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| PeterKSiegel says:
2/10/2015 1:15:43 PM
Thanks Tom, they are both 11"
Yes, makes sense. Just got a little nervous because the straightedge test was showing one of them to be way too tight. Go figure! I hope it does not break, it's a beautifully crafted object and even though it could be replaced, I have a real aversion to damaging the work of a craftsman like John.
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| PeterKSiegel says:
2/10/2015 1:16:23 PM
PS to Tom: I'm a big Gus Cannon fan.
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| PeterKSiegel says:
2/10/2015 1:18:49 PM
PS to Tom: I'm a big Gus Cannon fan.
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| jmoathout says:
2/10/2015 1:21:28 PM
Overall thickness or thickness variation within the head may be playing a part. You might try the straightedge/coin on the other side of the bridge. The gauge Steve made for me with three contact "points". But the center "point" is not on the bridge line - it's about 3/16" forward of the scribe mark that Steve uses to align with the bridge. The "fatter" bridge might be affecting the "center" point. It's not in the center, it's just the middle of the three points Steve puts on the gauge.
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 | Rich Polinski says:
2/10/2015 2:13:41 PM
Both my banjos have Stern Tanning calfskin heads from John Balch. One is 11" and the other 10 15/16". I couldn'nt consistent results with a tuner or the tap method and I use the stick and quarter. My stick is 1/4" thick so it will stand on its edge and long enough to span from rim to rim without touching the tension hoop when set in line with the neck on either side of the bridge.
I have a Grover tenor bridge on the one and a New Snuffy Smith Grover-style bridge on the other.
While I consider this method a way to achieve a consistent and known starting point, it so happens that with the quater just touching the stick on both sides of the bridge on each banjo, I get the sound I like and this seems to be about a G# but I can't swear to it.
I've learned not to be too concerned with technical correctness because 1) I don't know enough to achieve it to a reasonable eegree of certainty Nyway and 2) it may be technically correct and still not sound good, at least to me. As a starting point fine but as soon as I ask myself whether it sounds good or ask someone elses opinion, whether it's at some "ideal" technically correct setting is pretty much out the window anyway as far as an end result goes. At least it seems that way to me though I'm no expert, to say the least.
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| PeterKSiegel says:
2/10/2015 2:29:07 PM
Thanks guys. It does sound really good as it is right now. I think I'm gonna leave it as is. If the unthinkable happens, well, that was part of my education. The only thing I can say for sure is that both these banjos sound greatly improved with the new hide heads. Thanks John!
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 | ToneHz says:
3/14/2015 8:40:22 AM
I am a big fan of the Drum Dial by Precision Drum Tuners. I bought one used on eBay for about half the new price, a couple years ago. It makes tuning the head fast and accurate. Nothin' better than Drum Dial, for me!
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 | westsideryan says:
4/3/2015 9:39:27 AM
Because the thickness off a skin head isn't consistent throughout (like a plastic head), you can't use a Drum Dial.
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| ToneHz says:
4/29/2015 7:47:59 PM
Here's a math problem for you: Binky Jr. spends $X,XXX on a banjo, $XX on a new calfskin head, then $0.XX (25 cents) on a tool to adjust the tension of the head. Why not spend $XX for a half-priced used DrumDial on eBay? I love my DrumDial! I just tie-dyed a calfskin head in coffee and mounted it on my beloved White Mountain internal resonator banjo with a rosewood tonering. I love the tone! Right now I have the tension at 80-82. I might try bringing it up to ~85, as I've seen several players recommend. The DrumDial is $60 new and ~$30 used--save your quarters for (hmmm, I don't know what to use them for--not enough for a pay phone or bus fare anymore!)
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