Banjo Hangout - Banjo Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Clamshell tailpiece

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 7 Aug 2026 18:01:48 CST

Hey guys, does anybody know what kind of spring is in a clamshell tailpiece or what it is called? I want to rebuild the original ibanez one on my 76 artist that I took apart years ago because it vibrated.

building some gourd banjos...what workbench, clamping?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 7 Aug 2026 11:34:41 CST

ive stated to buy the needed tools but when it comes to a work bench systems and clamping ideas, I'm unsure what's best

1) a fold away / portable work bench (the ones with the step to get your weight on it.) & plywood jig (to hold the neck)
2) a shave horse - ive never used one but they look like they might work well for shaping
3) a small height adjustable frame with a thick wooden top - with either traditional vices or dog holes for holdfast clamps
4) a roman bench / shaving horse hybrid - giving me both the shaving option and a regular work bench in one (with dog holes )

any advice would be a huge help

thank you in advance

First time banjo builder, fingerboard pros and cons?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 7 Aug 2026 09:08:06 CST

I’m making my first banjo and not trying to get super complex in building while still having a good quality banjo. I’ve seen people say you have to add an extra small piece of wood on top of the neck for a fingerboard and others say to just use the wood of the neck for it. What difference does it make to add the extra wood and is it worth it? (I’m planning on making a regular fretless banjo if that changes things)

My first banjo build

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 6 Aug 2026 15:04:59 CST

Hey everyone,

A few months ago I finished my first banjo, and now I'd like to say thank you and share the result with all of you!

The Banjo Hangout has been an incredible source of information throughout this project. Special thanks go to Rudy and Ken LeVan! During my research on the Hangout, I learned an incredible amount about banjos and found answers to almost every question that came to mind.

I live in the southernmost part of Germany, where it's rare to even see a banjo, let alone play one. Before starting this project, I knew almost nothing about these instruments. Still, I had dreamed of playing the banjo for nearly a decade but could never afford one, so I decided to build my own.

So, here it is:

It has an 11-inch rim made from recycled mahogany that I salvaged during a house renovation. The wood is incredibly dense, has a beautiful dark color, and a unique grain pattern. The banjo features a handmade brass tone ring and tension hoop, both of which I made myself, a 650 mm (almost 25½-inch) scale length, an East Indian rosewood rim cap and fretboard, and an ebony headplate.

The mahogany neck contains a two-way truss rod that can be adjusted from the heel. I also spent a lot of time on the inlays in the headplate and fretboard, and I'm really happy with how they turned out.

Banjo necks

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 5 Aug 2026 14:16:25 CST

Looking for someone that can build a banjo neck for me. I was saving up for a Tim Davis, but I can’t seem to get ahold of him. Any suggestions?
I’m in the Asheville area.

Looking for a good luthier ( Sacramento area)

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 4 Aug 2026 19:27:14 CST

Can anybody recommend a good luthier preferably with banjo experience near Sacramento? I’m pretty sure Monty Hendricks is retired. He knew his stuff. My other guy moved back east. Larry Cohea is too far away.

Binding

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 4 Aug 2026 09:16:05 CST

I have a large selection of ivoroid, white, black, and laminated biding. I don't want to ship it. If you're in the New Hartford, CT area stop by and pick it up

1920s/30s banjo head replacement

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 2 Aug 2026 18:12:13 CST

Just got this tenor off of marketplace, seller says it's from 1920s/30s ish. Old hide head has a tear so looking for a replacement. Conflicting IDs on an FB group call it either a supertone or a Stromberg-Voisonette. Not too concerned with rarity or anything, would just love to get it up and running

Resonator Cover?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 2 Aug 2026 15:14:23 CST

My 1926 TB-3 finish is failing to the point that it leave my clothes and skin red if I sweat at all. Basically, fine for practice, major issue for sessions or gigs.

I don’t really want to overspray or refinish, however. I’ll reply with pics if you want to convince me I should refinish it, I guess.

But has anyone used a cover over the resonator in lieu of a refinish to act as a barrier protecting the wood and clothes/skin from seeping stain?

Head Size Fit Question

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 1 Aug 2026 11:55:10 CST

Will an 11 3/8" high crown head work on a standard 11" Mastertone flathead ring?

Space under frets

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 1 Aug 2026 06:52:44 CST

Hi,

These are how the frets look on an older Ode banjo that has not been refretted. Is there normally extra space under the frets like this on some banjos? My current banjos are constructed differently and there’s no space there. Just curious about this.

Thanks!
Michelle

Progress of neck build - peghead advice

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 1 Aug 2026 00:46:54 CST

Sharing the current state of my first from scratch neck build.
Walnut and cocobole, tunneled fifth, truss rod from heel. I am pretty satisfied, lots of fun. I noticed, that the right side of the peghead bottom is uneven (I sanded by hand) and now I need to decide how to deal with it.
Options could be:
- leave as is and declare it art
- add ebony overlay on bottom and even it out
- build bottom with walnut and even it out

The peghead is pretty thin, I am using small guitar tuners here. As the truss rod is from the heel and ends at first fret, the connection peghead/neck is super solid.

Any suggestions how to fix the uneven peghead?

NEWBEE BRIDGE QUESTION

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 30 Jul 2026 00:54:44 CST

Strummers and Pickers:

I have a Gold Tone Cripple Creek Tenor (4 string) banjo. I want to replace the bridge. If you look closely at my picture, the bridge appears to have a longer length from the first string to the tip than it does from the fourth string to opposite side tip. Maybe the builder or luthier was named "Stevie Wonder", "Jose Feliciano" or "Helen Keller" - I don't know - but I can surely SEE that is a tad "off". As a result, my fourth string seems to skirt the edge of the fretboard making fretting it a "PITA", so it's got to go.

I previously mentioned the "weirdness" of having a 5 string tailpiece on this 4 string banjo (see picture) and someone mentioned to skip the middle slot on the tailpiece. I've since done that!! Thank you for the suggestion! On Ebay I've seen that other "Gold Tone Cripple Creek tenor banjos" have the same 5 string tailpiece, so I've decided to "accept" and "embrace" it's "strangeness". LOL

Now, I want to replace the "cock-eyed" bridge. I've found several on Ebay.

Could someone please explain the difference between a "5/8' Tenor Maple/Ebony banjo bridge" and a 5/8" "Banjolele" 4 String Maple/Ebony (made by Gold Tone) bridge? They look exactly the same to me. I'm guessing "Stevie", "Jose" and "Helen" would unanimously agree.

Thanks for your time and help!!

‘Chorus’ sound on my openback banjo

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 14:00:12 CST

Hi,

My 12” hide head banjo is driving me nuts. Sometimes the B string sounds almost like it has a chorused effect, especially fretted at the 3rd and 4th fret. It has nylon strings. I’ve changed the tailpiece and tried adjusting head tension. I’ve tried tuning with a D’Addario or Petersen tuner. Intonation is spot on.

Does anyone know what causes this sound? It’s my only 12” setup, so I don’t have anything to compare against. It’s especially problematic in a jam situation where it sounds muddy or out of tune against other instruments.

Trying to figure out if a Remo head would mitigate this or if maybe 12” banjos just have some overtones that sound like chorus effects.

Thanks,
Michelle

Where to buy unslotted bridges for a Low-Jo (6-string) project?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 11:53:22 CST

Hey all,
I have a low-jo (six-string, but set up like a 5-string with extra bass string) project that requires a new bridge. I assume that a standard 5-string bridge will work, but I'd need to pick up one that has not been slotted yet.

I'd be interested in any Low-Jo players advice on bridges and any info on who is offering unslotted bridges.

Thanks!
David

Minstrel banjo tension hoop and flesh hoop advice.

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 20:43:49 CST

Can anyone out there tell me what thickness and height brass flat bar for a tension hoop and what thickness round bar I would want to use in putting together my 12" Boucher style banjo pot. This is assuming I use a six hook configuration. I guess I will start here and ask more questions later if I have them.

Coordinator Rod Question

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 14:54:26 CST

I am a beginner attempting to build a new neck for a Puntolillo pot. So far, the neck is coming along. But I'm curious about the original single coordinator rod, how it works, and what to do where it meets the neck. In the attached photos, you can see the nickel-plated brass hex rod. The neck in the photos is the existing one that I am going to replace.

The rod extends about 1/8" outside of the pot, so will be in conflict with the heel unless I dap it. Is this the way it is supposed to be?

I don't really understand how this rod can be used to adjust the neck. I will push/pull on the heel, but slides in the hole in the pot.

Also, I noticed that the tapped holes in the coordinator rod are off center, so there will be some 'run out' when turned, and it seems to me would tend to put the heel in a bind. Is that something to be concerned about?

Gourd banjo – Why is the tone so good?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 13:31:34 CST

banjohangout.org/myhangout/vid...#theVideo

Pretty nice sounding, mellow tone banjo here. I have tried getting that tone out of regular open back banjos but never have gotten even close such as using nylon strings and a skin head.. Here we have the gourd itself, probably a skin head that is probably not as tight as regular banjos, and pretty minimal metal. Has anyone created a similar tone out of a common open back banjo? How long do tack heads last? I am surprised they work all that long? I had a fretless once but it had a wood rim and wasn't even close to this mellow sound. What exactly is causing most of the tone here? Has anyone tried making wood tension hoops and other metal reducing parts and does that make a difference/improvement? Lastly, gourd banjos don't always sound this good – more mystery. banjered

HEAVY banjo and standing gigs!! Any advice?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 13:02:21 CST

Hi all,

A couple months ago, I upgraded to a beautiful 1970s Alvarez resonator from the crappy fender i started on. The sound is night and day. And the quality of build is noticeable- especially in the +10 pound difference in weight. Problem is I've been gigging a lot and standing up for the entire performance. After about 1-2 hours I feel my spine crunching and my neck/shoulders are tight and knotted. It sure is hard to find flow state when youre tired of holding your instrument. I haven't gotten a padded strap yet but even with one the weight is still not evenly distributed. So here I am looking for solutions.

I have been going to the gym to work my back and shoulders specifically for this problem lol. But I was wondering what you guys have tried to mitigate a heavier banjo. The sound is so good I really don't want to get another one but I don't want back problems down the road. Any ideas? Experience?

Banjo pics for reference/strap location

Thanks in advance!

Stelling Crusader Faulty Tuning Peg

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 12:17:43 CST

Hoping someone can help -

The 3rd-string tuner on my 2010 Stelling Crusader has come apart. The good news is that the internal gears still work perfectly - if I hold the housing together, it turns smoothly and will tune and hold string tension. The problem is that the outer housing has separated, so it comes apart again as soon as the pressure is released.

From what I’ve been told, it looks like the original swaged/crimped joint that holds the tuner housing together has failed.

Has anyone:

- successfully repaired one of these?
- identified who manufactured the original Stelling tuners around 2010 (Gotoh OEM perhaps?)
- or happen to have a single original nickel Stelling tuner available?

I’d much rather repair or replace it with an original than fit a modern substitute, as the banjo is otherwise completely original.

Sourcing Railroad Spikes

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 11:44:44 CST

Anyone like to sell me 10 railroad spikes? Ebay sellers have them in lots of 250 for $15, Stew-Mac has 15 for $5, but want additional $13 to ship! It shouldn't be this complicated....
Thx!

Bind-All binding glue.

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 06:36:14 CST

I like this glue from StewMac.
I'm working on a Bacon "Belmont" banjo which is suffering from loose celluloid overlays on its resonator and peghead.
The resonator side-binding had fallen off entirely and the peghead veneer was being held on solely by the tuner nuts.Neck binding falling off,too.
This glue is very easy to use giving me time enough to center and clamp everything and cleans up very simply.

Great glue for this job.

Fitting Tubaphone/Whyte Laydie style tone rings

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 00:15:56 CST

This is a two part question.

I recently acquired a 2 - ply maple rim, whyte laydie style tone ring, tension hoop and all hardware, reportedly early Rickard. I am thinking of best way to prep the rim for fitting the tone ring. By my measurement, I only need to rebate between 1.5 and 1.75mm to accommodate the skirt. It will be hard to get the rim accurately centered on the lathe the way I usually do it. I'm thinking of making a jig with a 11" diameter curve and a small hole to accommodate a bit on the table router, and adjusting using scrap. The other option so far is to try and set it up on the CNC, but maybe the same issue of centering? Other thoughts?

Part 2 - I had been thinking that the base of the tone ring should sit solidly on the top of the rim. However, I had to change the head on my '24 Tubaphone, and I noticed there was a gap. Curious, I pulled the tone ring, and find that there's a rebate in the inside of the rim - see photos. Does anyone think this is important ? Should I fit the WL ring the same way? (it's easily done)

Don't worry, I expect a wide variety of thoughts; I will respect them all.

I need some advice

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 26 Jul 2026 14:03:16 CST

I recently acquired a banjo that has had a few coats of pledge applied. The gentleman told me he used pledge on both wood and metal parts, but now the neck is pretty tacky to the touch . My first Question is , can I remove the pledge build up off the neck ? If so , How ? I don’t want to mess the finish up.. at all ! My second question is, have you ever used a pledge type products on your metal parts ? There’s no waxy build up on the metal. I’ve just never heard of using it on metal. Obliged

Space between the neck and thé body

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 26 Jul 2026 10:34:58 CST

Hi guys, I have a little question to submit to you. I have a 1983 Gibson RB250. The question is that it has a space, which seems important to me, between the lower neck and the body. I find it difficult to tune it especially when I use the capo. And the ground rope is also a problem. I solved the problem a little with a compensated bridge. What do you think, is this gap a problem or not? See the photo. Thank you very much for your opinions. Cordially from France

Drum dial settings for vellums

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 25 Jul 2026 14:26:36 CST

I am currently working on an old GH&S 5 string. After pulling it all down. cleaning everything and refitting it all, I wondered about the correct head tension for this. I set all my banjos plus the ones that come to me for repair/setup to 85. Before I pulled it down, I measured the head tension and it was between 70-75 in various places. Now it is back together, 80 feels right for this.

Your thoughts?

Dowel Stick Hole

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 25 Jul 2026 10:52:28 CST

Has anyone ever used a square hole drill bit for cutting the rim?

Just an idea.

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 23 Jul 2026 05:29:48 CST

What would the possibilities of making a 5 string banjo neck from a guitar neck...?

I was givin a electric guitar neck..
Hence the thought..

Nashville Plating Service

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 22 Jul 2026 13:45:50 CST

I sent some parts to Nashville Plating Service that were delivered on July 1st. I hadn't gotten any responses from calls, texts, or emails, so I looked online today and see that a Ron Satterfield of Old Hickory, TN, passed away on July 17th. Does anyone know anything about this?

Adding extra ply to prewar thin rims

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 22 Jul 2026 11:18:18 CST

Are there any luthiers out there still offering this service? I know it's not a legit prewar but I've got a couple thin rims I might keep for myself if I could get an extra ply added...

Detuners

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 22 Jul 2026 11:02:55 CST

Hi, it's been a while since I posted here. I'm planning my next build and thinking about tuners. I play clawhammer in Open G, Double C, and Sawmill. So I need to retune my second and 4th strings. My understanding is that most detuners are put on the second and third strings. Would the 3rd string tuner work just as well on the 4th string? Any suggestions on brands?

Secret to joining neck to rim

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 21 Jul 2026 17:18:50 CST

WARNING: SAFETY CONES
official secret: Washburn brand aluminum rim has a flat spot cast into it where the neck joins the rim .?????? .
I built a rim and neck for somebody who actually paid me fair and donated to me the Washburn with the broken neck and that’s how I learned this. I repaired the neck and she plays again.

That means that it eliminates the need for a jig or shaper to cut an accurate 5” radius round heel!!!

Just an accurate 90 degree tangent cut with a table saw or chop saw or compound miter saw or radial arm saw or even a band saw and or a chisel and mallet if no electricity.
And it means the neck heel angle can be either cut or adjusted in a swing like other new banjos- uh oh ?? and then etc!!

Don’t anybody run off and “big boy” everybody with a patent. This should be shared with all. It saves a bunch of time and trouble.

Tote that charge, lift that jail.

Remember older Vegas and Bacon and Day and even STAMM rims with sideways adjustments? Well……???

Hope this helps everybody.
( ):)====‘= : : }

New Nut or Shim the Current One?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 21 Jul 2026 10:37:12 CST

I think I'm in need of a new nut for Grond, my TB-11, as the current one seems to be sitting too low, or the slots have worn down.

There's a pretty significant buzz in open G, and I've checked everything else I can think of checking. My question is, would shimming the current nut be a viable alternative? I have thin enough material to do it, just curious what yall would do in the long run.

Appreciate any feedback; thanks everyone!!

Hide glue

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 20 Jul 2026 15:36:07 CST

I was at a friend's place over the weekend availing myself of his large lathe to skim down the rim to make a slip fit for the tone ring. He makes guitars and dulcimers and we got discussing hide glue was he had a pot of it on his work bench. He made a statement that gobsmacked me. He said the HG was merely gelatin. I thought is was a clever concoction of different elements. I got on line to find local supplier of it and I found packets of it at my local supermarket!

Your thoughts?

Kay Bakelite '60's Banjo

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 19 Jul 2026 11:15:05 CST

Hello all, I just picked up this Kay banjo and I'm in the process of trying to get it setup and playable. If you notice I replaced the tuners and one is a little lop-sided...oh well, it works. I have to get a tailpiece screw because someone just had a regular screw in it and it was not holding it secure. I'm not sure if the tailpiece sits exactly how it's supposed to when I put a couple strings on to check it out, it looked like the strings were touching the head, which I don't think that's correct, but I've never worked on a banjo. It had another issue which I corrected where the large wooden dowel came loose from the neck heel and had to be reglued, now it's secure. What is the proper position for the tailpiece? I guess the proper screw for it will pull it down level? Thanks for any comments or advice. By the way...is there a more modern tailpiece that will work? The original is a pain to string up IMO.

70's Gibson Mastertone RB-250 Puzzle Question

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 18 Jul 2026 20:42:51 CST

<solved>
Looks like it is from another banjo, not the RB-250.
</solved>

Met with The Old Timer who really did me a solid by evaluating and blessing my 70's RB-250, and allowed that I did not perhaps own the world's worst Mastertone model. I'll leave it to others to guess what was worse.

That said, I have found an extra-part that I think is from the banjo--pix of it built and the extra flangy bit. I have owned one other banjo so it could be from that but it matches so perfectly the overall pattern of the Mastertone, but then again everything does.....

Where does my missing flange go, if anywhere?

Shim b/t tension hoop and fingerboard - Describe the negative effect

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 17 Jul 2026 14:35:37 CST

Howdy all - There are a few posts on the site that say not to put a shim between the tension hoop and the fingerboard to lower the action because doing so produces negative effects in the sound/tone. Can someone tell me what the particular negative effect sounds like? Describing sound in words is hard but let me know if you can.

For background, I have my dad's 28 TB-4 conversion. He put a clear plastic shim between the hoop and fingerboard in maybe 1977 and played with it like that for about 40 years. I just swapped it out for a slightly thicker piece cut from a credit card to lower the action a bit more. I can certainly take the neck off and put a shim around the top lag bolt where it connects to the tone ring if needed. I actually tried that with a brass shim as recommended here but it was too thin to bring the action down to a reasonable place. (My dad built the neck from a StewMac blank and it may need sanding on the heel but I'm trying to avoid that for now by using a shim.)

But I'm curious as to whether moving the shim down to the lag bolt really necessary. I'm pretty happy with the sound now, but there are minor overtones that I'm wondering if moving the shim might fix. Thanks, I appreciate the advice from everyone on here who is far more experienced than me.

"What if the Wood Used to Make Musical Instruments Becomes Illegal ?"

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 16 Jul 2026 12:06:17 CST

What if the Wood Used to Make Musical Instruments Becomes Illegal?

For centuries, the standard wood used to make string instruments’ bows has come from the pernambuco tree in Brazil. Its future is uncertain.

nytimes.com/2026/07/14/arts/mu...=em-share

Or . . . see attachment to this post.

Cheers,

Lew

Kudos to Steve Huber for conversion flat head ring in my 1927 Granada

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 16 Jul 2026 11:46:57 CST

I want to report my big vote of confidence and thanks to Steve Huber for the outstanding results of his installation of his arch-to-flat-head-no-cut conversion flat head tone ring in my 1927 Granada (which had a 40 hole arch top originally). It is marked HR 30. Also, he did the gold plate over copper flash as I requested. I had him plate it in shiny gold, after I realized that the cool semi-matte appearance of all the original metal was mostly dirt from nearly 100 years of living.

I've been picking on it for about 3 weeks now, including a lot of use at the Jenny Brook Festival in Vermont where I listened to a number of good players pick on it. I've been extremely pleased, as have my banjo buddies.

I've worked very hard to tweak the head tension to match my Greg Rich Era Granada (Kulesh ring), which for about 30 years has been what I considered my all-around best sounding banjo. I've got the head tension on both to G sharp as well as I could manage. I've concluded that the 1927 slightly outperforms the GRE Granada in volume, presence, sonorous-ness (sonority?), power and TWANG.

I noticed that the conversion ring dispenses with the drilled holes. Perhaps to maintain all the possible weight of the ring? (I haven't weighed the ring, I will next time I change the head.) Also, Steve insists on having the pot at hand, as he "fits the tone ring to the pot", not fits the pot to the ring as he doesn't like to alter original rims if he doesn't have to. The tone ring was loose enough to spin on the rim with one hand, before I reassembled everything.

The job suffered a slight delay due to issues with the plating process. But it was delivered to me in time to take to Jenny Brook, as I requested.

Large KUDOS to Huber Banjos for exceeding my expectations.

Tuner Question

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 16 Jul 2026 09:48:11 CST

Can a tuner with the small alignment pin in the base be repaired.? I recently bought some tuners at a flea-market, and one has the pin broken off flush. When tuning it allows the tuner to rotate in the headstock.
If I can dis-assemble, I think I can replace with a small cutoff brad.. Ideas.?

Binding metal to wood

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 16 Jul 2026 08:08:53 CST

I may have asked this before, but I can't find a reference to it now. Does anyone know what kind of adhesive would work well to bind metal to wood?
I am working on a neck for an instrument where the bridge is in a fixed position. The scale will require the fingerboard to stop short of the end of the neck. The fingerboard extends about 3/4" beyond the last fret so I thought about routing a 1/2" of it thinner and installing a piece of 1/16" thick sheet brass to cover the gap. I can even extend it over the body if I want to. What I'm not sure of is what kind of adhesive I would need to use to secure it. I am assuming some kind of epoxy, which I don't have a lot of experience with except for J B Weld. What would be a good way to secure the brass to the fingerboard?
I can glue wood to wood, plastic to wood, and pearl to wood but this is a new experience for me.

Replacement of guaranteed parts that fail?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 15 Jul 2026 07:08:49 CST

I have often thought of this scenario - We are all aware that Gibson has a lifetime guarantee. So since Gibson is no longer producing banjos, what happens when the neck warps (a rare occurrence I'm sure, but it does happen) so badly it can't be easily corrected? What happens when the tailpiece should break? Or when a tension hoop or flange might fail? OK - I had heard some years ago that IF your tailpiece should break, and IF you were in fact the original purchaser and had your warranty paperwork in order to prove that, that Gibson would in fact send you another tailpiece, that is, UNTIL they ran out of that particular part. Then they would direct you to purchase another tailpiece from a third party (stewmac, Prucha, Boyd, FQMS, etc.) Submit proof of the purchase, and they might reimburse you. ?? But now since any leftover items and parts that might have been on hand when they stopped producing banjos is long gone, and Gibson is very reluctant or unable to replace any banjo parts, what avenue does someone have to force them to honor the warranty? Just curious.... inquiring minds want to know!

11" aluminium pot build..

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 15 Jul 2026 05:01:37 CST

I'm pretty sure I can turn an 11" pot on me metal lathe..
As I have been putzin around claw hammer styles as ahposed to finger picking..
I have been lookin for an aluminium banjo pot to build one..
The thought is pipe..or turning one to the specs I want..

Years ago I had a stewmac kit banjo that was ah archtop head pot..
That size but in a flat top version..
Any thoughts or comments are appreciated..
N if you know a source of pipe..please chime in...
I can scour..the Man's Malls around here..(aka junk yards)
Thanks in advance for annah inputs..

Don New Spillway bridges

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 14 Jul 2026 12:45:21 CST

Anyone know what has happened with Don New? I have emailed him as well as left him a message here several times in the past 2 weeks and haven’t heard a thing back from him. He has a current listing in the marketplace so appears to still be in business. Is he well, still selling, just hard to get in touch with? Anyone know of another source for 1/2” banjo bridges suitable for antique banjos with Nylgut strings now that Joel Hooks is no longer making them? Thanks—Larry

Current parts suppliers

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 14 Jul 2026 12:04:21 CST

Which are the current sources for folks who want to build their own bluegrass banjo? It used to be easy between Stew Mac, First Quality, Janet Davis

Fret Replacement

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 14 Jul 2026 02:40:40 CST

I have a 1977 Stelling Staghorn that is in dire need of a complete fret replacement.

The frets have been dressed at least once and are worn out..

I should have had them done before Geoff retired.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good luthier that has experience with installing and dressing stainless frets on banjos?

I have some Evo Gold fret stock from prior to the Russian invasion of Ukraine that I would like to use. Evo Gold installation uses same technique & tools as stainless.

I will be in Central Coast California this week and am willing to hand deliver as far south as San Luis Obispo or an far north as Clear Lake.

Next week I will be in the Portland area and will be able to drive as far north as Seattle or anywhere in western Oregon.

Siminoff (Atascadero), Gryphon (Palo Alto), and Sylvan (Santa Cruz) come to mind...
But, I am open to other luthiers.

Stubborn tuner button removal

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 13 Jul 2026 18:04:37 CST

Hi everyone!
I have a question about removing tuner buttons. I have a set of planetary Gotohs which are probably about 10-15 years old. I want to change the tuner buttons (for aesthetic reasons… my banjo is very vain).

A couple of the buttons came off with (what I would consider) a reasonable amount of force, whilst a couple just refused to budge. I could probably get them off with a bit more force, but I felt I should consult the banjo elders first - that’s you guys. Any tips?

I had thought maybe half an hour in the freezer might help, but I don’t want to be the idiot that broke a set of tuners by freezing them without first seeking adequate counsel.

Thanks for your help!

Fairbanks Electric needs new neck-Glenn Weiser

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 13 Jul 2026 15:56:11 CST

Banjo Hive Mind-
I have a student who has a Fairbanks Electric with a deteriorated fretboard. The pot looks good, though. I believe this banjo needs a new neck with a truss rod. So my two questions are 1} can anyone identify the model number, and 2) who is the best person around to build a new neck for this instrument? My concern is that only replacing the fretboard might not prevent the neck from bowing, so I'm thinking a new neck with reproduction inlays and a truss rod would be the best solution here. Photos are attached.
Thanks,
Glenn Weiser

Bowed neck alternative repair?

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 13 Jul 2026 13:46:24 CST

I was thinking about how to straighten a bowed neck on vintage banjos with no truss rod.
Conventional method is either heat or take off fingerboard level neck and replace.
I wondered if instead it would be feasible to remove the rimstick clamp the neck straight in a suitable jig and drill a hole the length of the of the neck to take say a 3/8” steel rod set with resin slowly poured in, refit rimstick. Fantasy Island or feasible?
Be pleased to hear your thoughts.

Grain alignment in partial resonator

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 13 Jul 2026 05:54:29 CST

I’m going to have a go a building a partial resonator like the lovely ones Mark Hickler makes (first pic)

I’m wondering about the pros and cons of grain alignment.

If the wedges are cut across the grain (sketch “A”), the grain will run tangent to the rim and one might even be able to achieve a bookmarch look with careful alignment. However, the glue joints will be mostly end grain.

If the edges are cut with the grain (sketch “B”), the grain will be normal to the curve and the glue joints won’t be end grain.

Is there any guidance to be had about aesthetics, joint strength and wood movement in either example?