Hanger bolt doesn't clear the tube and is angled with the presto style tailpiece. Which tailpiece would be better or do folks just use some makeshift way to move tailpiece rearward?
I have a masterclone with a two piece flange and it uses this style tailpiece holder bracket that mounts between the hooks:
I'm not sure if they come in different sizes though, or even if the one in my link would be the correct size for your flange.
Edited by - localhost on 04/06/2026 08:10:59
I've looked at both of those then realized the issue is tailpiece itself. A picture would've been helpful. I removed the plate to convert to open back
Edited by - blnote on 04/06/2026 08:25:09
My Iida 233 masterclone has a Presto copy and is sits where it is supposed to be.
Never noticed anything strange with the Tailpiece bracket....
Edited by - RB-1 on 04/06/2026 08:25:04
The 1970s-80s two-piece flange RB-250 used T-brackets like the one above for both tailpiece and resonator attachment.
The hole spacing is standard for Mastertone-style 24-hook flanges and tension hoops. Note that the hole spacing for a tailpiece T-bracket is wider than for resonator T-brackets.
Amazon has a tailpiece T-bracket. I'm not totally sure of the hole spacing. Buy at your own risk. But it's a low total price with free shipping.
The L-shaped bracket for two-piece flange is sold out at Sullivan. But Elderly has it. Elderly also has one with a longer hole.
From your photo, compared to my 1929 TB 4 with Presto, the top of your L tab hanger is too far below the tube (IMO).
Is your L tab hanger perhaps upside down, or in some way shifted down too far? The top of my L tab hanger is snug up against the underside of the plate, and the tailpiece hanger bolt is touching the tube. My L tab hanger has the "long hole" in it for the tailpiece hanger bolt, and my hanger bolt is fully to the "rear" or outside of the L tab hanger, again giving the bolt the best chance of clearing the tube.
Also, I have seen many such a tailpiece hanger bolt purposely bent to clear the tube.
I wonder if your banjo has been disassembled and then reassembled in a different way where the L tab hanger and the tailpiece hanger bolt meet.
Also watch out for over-torquing your tailpiece hanger bolt. The little L tab on the bottom of your tailpiece is already quite stretched out of shape. Overtightening the tailpiece hanger bolt any further might crack your tailpiece at that little 90 deg. bend -- which yours has already exceeded (I've done it).
Maybe I'm missing it, but I don't see the tailpiece bracket on the rim as the issue, maybe that t-bracket is the answer but I've only seen with no-knot setup. Was thinking a different tailpiece with an adjustment screw since it looks like its needed to align hanger bolt. The RB-250's I saw had claimshells which can be adjusted away from the pot.
btw - I'm new to banjos and barely know what I'm talking about, why I'm seeking advice. Thanks.
quote:
Originally posted by The Old TimerAlso watch out for over-torquing your tailpiece hanger bolt. The little L tab on the bottom of your tailpiece is already quite stretched out of shape. Overtightening the tailpiece hanger bolt any further might crack your tailpiece at that little 90 deg. bend -- which yours has already exceeded (I've done it).
+1
The tailpiece has suffered excessive tension and the rest of the setup is mechanically reasonable. A little angle on the tailpiece screw is common. note: I don't care for difficult tailpiece fitting and do correct the condition with alternative tee or L mounting brackets (etc, etc), as necessary.
Moving the tailpiece outboard can be achieved with shims between the hoop and tailpiece. This will change the tone, depending on the shim materials.
Edited by - pinenut on 04/06/2026 09:28:50
quote:Originally posted by The Old Timer From your photo, compared to my 1929 TB 4 with Presto, the top of your L tab hanger is too far below the tube (IMO).
Yeah, I see that now, I'm going to check if it has room to move. I don't see how this would ever align past the tube but I assume it originally did so maybe straightening the brackets will fix.
Fixed, at least good enough to not get a new tailpiece and L bracket. Bent brackets back somewhat, much better.
Appreciate everyone's help.
As an inveterate putterer* who's also frequently an outlier*, naturally (??) I'd bend an "offset" into the tailpiece hanger bolt [so long as you don't need to make any adjustment on the head of the bolt]. 
* but not a banjo repair person.
Edited by - Owen on 04/06/2026 10:24:55
+1 for using a tee bracket or longer L bracket that moves the mounting surface up to give better clearance at the bottom of the bolt where it hits the tube.
quote:
Originally posted by blnoteMaybe I'm missing it, but I don't see the tailpiece bracket on the rim as the issue, maybe that t-bracket is the answer but I've only seen with no-knot setup. Was thinking a different tailpiece with an adjustment screw since it looks like its needed to align hanger bolt. The RB-250's I saw had claimshells which can be adjusted away from the pot.
btw - I'm new to banjos and barely know what I'm talking about, why I'm seeking advice. Thanks.
To begin with the latter, weren't we all like that once?
Asking questions, making your conclusions, brings knowledge.
About those 'adjustable' tailpieces, these were from a time that it was not common knowledge that forcing a tailpiece towards the head robs your banjo of part of the tone it is capable of. I still cringe when hearing most recordings from that infamous 'can of nails/ breaking glas'-sound period.
Question: Where does the adjustment screw of a Presto tailpiece belong? Answer: In the bin..... 
Edited by - RB-1 on 04/06/2026 13:08:48
quote:
Originally posted by blnoteWas thinking a different tailpiece with an adjustment screw since it looks like its needed to align hanger bolt. The RB-250's I saw had claimshells which can be adjusted away from the pot.
Exactly.
That type of clamshell is still available. Here's the cheapest generic Asian version. $11 with free shipping if you have Amazon Prime. Probably serviceable. Seller can't make up their mind if it's nickel or chrome. Looks chrome to me.
Here it is from Allparts in nickel. $30 shipped.
And here's the Saga/Golden Gate version. $45. I can't say for certain it's not actually the same item as one of the others.
This type of tailpiece has an underside bracket so it sits on top of the tension hoop. It's fully adjustable for up and down angle. I like the mass that they add. But they can rattle. I've put a piece of sticky-back velcro, loop strip, under the cover of mine (on a 70s RB250 parts banjo) to keep it from making noise.
I believe an old-style Waverly tailpiece, which also sits on the tension hoop, might work. As might the new style Waverly that Gibson used in the 1960s and Fender USA used in the 70s. Also, the original Kasuga bowtie banjos.
Clamshell might be your best bet since that's what Gibson used with two-piece flange in the 70s and 80s. Besides the ones I found on Amazon, they're also probably on eBay.
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