Do you have a drill press ?
If yes, then chuck up say a 1/2" dia good drill bit......then with a very good precision machinists square you would true up the table in perpendicular.....
then, insert a good quality sanding drum and check the 'runout' (ie., deviation from true roundness)....then, by using similar fretboard material density, make a 'thicknessing pass' to determine if you get a 'wave pattern' or a nice smooth surface like a baby's bum.

Much depends on your set-up variables and prep work, touch of the hand, etc. - but essentially this type of tooling configuration is a sideways mini-thickness sander concept.

I've seen a lot of folks planing with a hand held router. You basically fasten your board to the bench and mount the router to a sled that straddles the board and slide the sled back and forth. Lower the bit and repeat.

There should be a lot of videos on youtube, just search for planing with a router.

I think it would be more difficult to do on a router table, at least for me.

I  might not have the problem straight in my mind but would a bit like this help?

I agree with Rbuddy
Invest in the handheld router base
Clamp the neck in place

I clamp the Dremel upside down in the vise and use a Mahog plate with a spinning tool sticking through to cut pearl and hardwood inlays.
It’s easier and safer to push the smaller pieces against the tool that way (learned it on the hangout).

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Originally posted by Owen

I  might not have the problem straight in my mind but would a bit like this help?

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What are these called??

quote:

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Originally posted by Helix

I agree with Rbuddy
Invest in the handheld router base
Clamp the neck in place

I clamp the Dremel upside down in the vise and use a Mahog plate with a spinning tool sticking through to cut pearl and hardwood inlays.
It’s easier and safer to push the smaller pieces against the tool that way (learned it on the hangout).

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That is a "Mahog plate"?

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Originally posted by banjonz

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

I  might not have the problem straight in my mind but would a bit like this help?

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What are these called??

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They're "flush trim router bits."

  [My confusion is with your use of the word "match" in the title.  Are you matching the width of the fretboard to the width of the neck?  Those ^^ bits might work for that, but I don't see them useful if it's the fret board thickness you're reducing by planing/sanding .... but caveat emptor, I'm a putterer more so than a "real" woodworker.]

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

quote:

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Originally posted by banjonz

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

I  might not have the problem straight in my mind but would a bit like this help?

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What are these called??

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They're "flush trim router bits."

  [My confusion is with your use of the word "match" in the title.  Are you matching the width of the fretboard to the width of the neck?  Those ^^ bits might work for that, but I don't see them useful if it's the fret board thickness you're reducing by planing/sanding .... but caveat emptor, I'm a putterer more so than a "real" woodworker.]

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I am matching the width of the neck. After I inlayed the fretboard, I marked it out for fitting to the neck. It is glued in place and slotted. I have trimmed it down closer to the shape of the neck using my bandsaw. I am currently using sanding blocks (long and short ones) to sand down the edges but it is very slow work, hence the enquiry.

I use a small, very sharp block plane and a chisel plane for the tight spots, get close, then finish up with sandpaper (but I'm usually sizing the neck to the fingerboard instead).

How about sending a photo of your project so far. Then we'll know better what you need to do.

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Originally posted by pfolmar

How about sending a photo of your project so far. Then we'll know better what you need to do.

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Prior to this I clamped the neck to my workbench raising if up using offset (behind the fretboard) woos packer and using my sanding blocks (long and short) to sand off the excess fingerboard. I have taped off the neck to protect it. I am currently investigating an inexpensive router and routing table to see if this will work.