As long as the strings don't buzz it's a badge of honour, leave them be.

Capo at the 2nd?

I usually wait until I get a rattle--then hit them all slightly with a flat file --then crown them -- a good crown helps get a better note vs a flattened fret --and I definitely need the help-not saying it is correct for anyone else

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Originally posted by Bruce Berry Banjos

Capo at the 2nd?

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I don't use a capo much, but do use the A bar chord a lot. 

I usually wait till I get a buzz. I have a stelling which is in the same shape as yours pictured. I kind of save it for the stage now and use other banjos for daily practice.

Rick

What the rest mostly said: don’t mess with them until they affect playing. I tend to replace all of them so the feel will be consistent.

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Originally posted by Bill Rogers

What the rest mostly said: don’t mess with them until they affect playing. I tend to replace all of them so the feel will be consistent.

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Yes, playability is another criterion, other than buzzing. 
 

I have a lighter touch with the left hand and don't want to feel like I have to mash down on the string to get a clear tone.  At the point where the flesh of the fingertip feels like it is pushing too much on the fingerboard itself, it is time to get new frets. 
 

Also, prior to hearing any buzzing, worn frets result in the string barely touching upper frets such that the tone is degraded -- loss of sustain and clarity.  Waiting to actually hear buzzing before getting new frets is waiting too long. 
 

Partial refrets can work fine -- whether first 5, 7, 10, or 12.  Then the whole fingerboard can be leveled, with the unworn frets reduced .002 or so. Then the overall height of the new .043" frets becomes .041", still playable. 
 

Hope this helps. There can be more than audible buzzing to consider. 

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Originally posted by Alex Z

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Originally posted by Bill Rogers

What the rest mostly said: don’t mess with them until they affect playing. I tend to replace all of them so the feel will be consistent.

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 ...Partial refrets can work fine -- whether first 5, 7, 10, or 12.  Then the whole fingerboard can be leveled, with the unworn frets reduced .002 or so. Then the overall height of the new .043" frets becomes .041", still playable...

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This is what I recently had done on my other banjo (first 5), and it worked fantastic. In the past I've had complete refrets done, but always thought it was a waste past the 10th fret. I'm theorizing doing the first 10 frets with SS wire on my Sierra, when the time comes. Coming from electric guitar, I think I have a light touch, but I can wear out some frets. I think the death grip theory is not correct. This banjo is becoming a lifer, so I want the next fretwork to last awhile. 

Dean,
I agree that your frets are still looking pretty good and appear to have considerable life left in them. And as you stated; if there is no buzzing you’re good to go.
I have quite a few guitars and banjos so I invested a few dollars in fret filing and a fret crowning tools from Stew Mac to keep my instruments in top shape. Leveling and dressing frets is not complicated if one takes a bit of time to learn from watching instructional videos from reliable sources. I also like to keep frets polished. Sometimes just a little touch up of a few worn frets is all that is needed to extend fret life.

Mike: I think we should go for LST (Longitudinal Standard Time).
The younger I get, yesterdays are shorter. I have a Battle Lake Spouse.

Dean: I choose adjustment and buzz.

First five if needed

Thanks for a good conversation. The banjo is strung up and playing fine. I do have fret files, but have never dressed the playing surface of my frets… I’ve alway just played them to death before replacing. I got the files to take care of fret sprout and fret end dressing.