Bob,

Dime a dozen ?  In your dreams !

I should elaborate a bit about my dime a dozen comment.

There are lots of hotrods out there.  They're always fun to look at and some of them are fun to drive.  There's something oddly comforting about an old vehicle that is still doing it's job the way the engineers intended years ago when it was designed and built.  I find this particularly true for pickups and doubly true if the truck was manufactured before I was born.

It's a silly sentiment, but I've said much sillier things.  So there!

I have pretty decided on my philosophy with my ol truck. I don't need or want a "show" car at this point in my life. I want to be to haul things, pull things, run into things, and occasionally take a fun town drive with it.

> Primarily need to get new tires for the 16" rims, likely wider than the original size.
> Change the oil and gasoline if any is still in the tank ( a tank I replaced last time I revived old blue).
> New master cylinder, brake lines, and brakes.
> Get the original engine running again with new points and plugs and carb cleaning, and ???? check lights.
> Check mechanical fuel pump (fairly low miles on it).
> Need some sheet metal to patch over cab floor rust through.
> Threads are stripped on my foot ignition switch-need to secure the post into the female side.
> Check vacuum lines to windshield wipers.
> The original wood and metal strips bed of the box is in rough shape-may drop in a piece of plywood or thick hard rubber-or replace that??
> Though replaced in the past-check and replace wheel bearings and king pins.
> Rebuild/replace steering gear box. I think they finally remake those. My steering wheel has way too much "play" in it nowadays.
> Clean old paint and shoot a clear coat over it? Satin or flat? (The blue paint is new, pre-1970 cheapo-paint) a lot of black and surface rust showing through nowadays.

Then look into rebuilding a bigger inline six engine. Mine is the original 216 cannot be "built up". I want to keep with an inline-6 (either a 235 all the way, or 235 head over a 261 block) Darn, I scrapped my old engine stand a year back or so. Darn, decades ago I had my hands on a complete V8 283 that drops in well.
Brad

That said, I am still open to suggestions. So many other little things I could do, like new doors seals again, window channel seals, floor matting, shocks and springs, etc. brad

quote:

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Originally posted by rinemb

I have pretty decided on my philosophy with my ol truck. I don't need or want a "show" car at this point in my life. I want to be to haul things, pull things, run into things, and occasionally take a fun town drive with it.
> Replace or repair hood latch stuff.
> Primarily need to get new tires for the 16" rims, likely wider than the original size.
> Change the oil and gasoline if any is still in the tank ( a tank I replaced last time I revived old blue).
> New master cylinder, brake lines, and brakes.
> Get the original engine running again with new points and plugs and carb cleaning, and ???? check lights.
> Check mechanical fuel pump (fairly low miles on it).
> Need some sheet metal to patch over cab floor rust through.
> Threads are stripped on my foot ignition switch-need to secure the post into the female side.
> Check vacuum lines to windshield wipers.
> The original wood and metal strips bed of the box is in rough shape-may drop in a piece of plywood or thick hard rubber-or replace that??
> Though replaced in the past-check and replace wheel bearings and king pins.
> Rebuild/replace steering gear box. I think they finally remake those. My steering wheel has way too much "play" in it nowadays.
> Clean old paint and shoot a clear coat over it? Satin or flat? (The blue paint is new, pre-1970 cheapo-paint) a lot of black and surface rust showing through nowadays.

Then look into rebuilding a bigger inline six engine. Mine is the original 216 cannot be "built up". I want to keep with an inline-6 (either a 235 all the way, or 235 head over a 261 block) Darn, I scrapped my old engine stand a year back or so. Darn, decades ago I had my hands on a complete V8 283 that drops in well.
Brad

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First steps are tires and get it running. I removed the chrome whole wheel covers as they are pitted with rust. Staying with rat rod scheme for now, I kind of like the present look of my old paint job from 50 years ago.
Leave them as is , or repaint? Sorry for lighting. Brad

Find a chevy 292 straight six
I think it would fit in there
The torque tube rear I imagine can handle it.
Not sure if 52 had a torque tube still. My 51 had that set up.

It rained nearly all day, the last couple of days. So, perfect excuse to work in garage. I am going through the steps to give Ol Blue its first crank. I will pull the spark plugs today (after numbering the wires) and clean and check gap. Also I will pour 2-3 oz of Marvelous Mystery oil into each plug hole to soak a day or two. The gas tank was dry. I pour a gallon of gas with cleaner added into tank to soak a day or two and then will drain it out before adding a couple of gallons to work with.
Since the 4-speed granny gear tranny does not have a dip stick, I will check fluid through filler hole and then look at fluid. Can I still buy 90-wt mineral oil? I will do need to figure out what transmission fluid to fill with that is available and appropriate.
Today I will also crack loose all the lug nuts then raise pickup onto jack stands. Brad

I have no power to my detached garage, so with no sun I work by electric lantern light while competing for space with the brown spiders. Brad

??? I pulled up the nearly 50 year old carpet in the cab and hot reminder of some severe sheet metal rust through. It is where the toe board panel meets the floor. The widest gap may be two inches varying to one inch running along for about a foot or so. Though these panels are available I want to patch it. I will be covering the whole cab floor with a reproduction rubber flooring for this pickup.
…Any suggestions on the patching to regain some structural integrity and minimize air and dust flow into the cab? Thx. I will take a pic later.

Pics regarding above post.

Suggestions?? 

Not for the patch, but in regards to "no power," IF it's closer to a neighbor's building, I'd run a good extension cord ... toss/rake some leaves over it* and Bob's your uncle. 

* what he doesn't know won't hurt him. 

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

Suggestions?? 

Not for the patch, but in regards to "no power," IF it's closer to a neighbor's building, I'd run a good extension cord ... toss/rake some leaves over it* and Bob's your uncle. 

* what he doesn't know won't hurt him. 

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Hmmm.  Neighbor moved out.  That plugin on his garage next to mine is real handy. Brad

Not a big surprise, but, armed with an 18” 1/2” drive and a 3/4” socket, and, my trusty spinner lugnut tool, I attacked the nuts on the 6 bolt wheels while the tires on the concrete. Zip, zero, nada! So, I sprayed them all down with a liquid wrench then ratta-tapped on them all with a two pounder. I will try again in a couple of days…. A torch may be next? Brad

quote:

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Originally posted by rinemb

quote:

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Originally posted by pinenut

quote:

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Originally posted by rinemb

Drain old gas and oil.

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STRONG WARNING:

The old engines are not compatible with the new automotive oils that lack shear protection for the cam lobes and the rest.  Modern oil will consume older engines that lack roller rockers and ball bearings in a very short time (~few thousand miles). 

Use Diesel type 15w40 (Delo, Rotella, etc) in these older engines; it has the necessary ingredients.

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I did not know that!   I have not run the truck in maybe 15 years?  but up to then I was adding oil regularly.  Usually a straight 20 or 30wt?  Brad

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Use Rotella in my 1944 John Deere A , 9 1/2 qts 

Also ,today's alcohol in gas does not do well w/ some types of rubber seals , especially in older vehicles . 

Marvel mystery oil ..in the fule n a fule enzyme catalyst will help alot with the new gas problums..

quote:

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Originally posted by rinemb

??? I pulled up the nearly 50 year old carpet in the cab and hot reminder of some severe sheet metal rust through. It is where the toe board panel meets the floor. The widest gap may be two inches varying to one inch running along for about a foot or so. Though these panels are available I want to patch it. I will be covering the whole cab floor with a reproduction rubber flooring for this pickup.
…Any suggestions on the patching to regain some structural integrity and minimize air and dust flow into the cab? Thx. I will take a pic later.

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Go to N.A.P.A. Auto parts..

N ask them about the body glue in the caulk tubes...

It is how all the new cars are put together now..

I still use pop rivets in conjunction with it..

Easy way..secure your sheet metal in with a few zap screws..the one at a time remove a zap screw..n put a pop rivets in its place..

If it have the correct pic...

More pics.

Stud,

Hah!

Another squarehead here!  

1977 GMC Sierra stepside 4WD 350 crate motor, auto

Geez Jon, I thought New Brunswick was the only place where getting a driver's license was that ^^ easy.     Came across this dude several years back at a music festival there.

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

Geez Jon, I thought New Brunswick was the only place where getting a driver's license was that ^^ easy.     Came across this dude several years back at a music festival there.

 

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Heh... that's funny but you should watch out for CA or WA plates on semis.  Those states literally give CDLs to anyone. 

Well... not dogs... yet... probably not.

Sorry for being totally off-topic.  We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

quote:

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Originally posted by Jon Borcherding

Stud,

Hah!

Another squarehead here!  

1977 GMC Sierra stepside 4WD 350 crate motor, auto

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I'd like to have a 1972 or k5 blazer.. :0)

quote:

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Originally posted by STUD figmo Al

quote:

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Originally posted by Jon Borcherding

Stud,

Hah!

Another squarehead here!  

1977 GMC Sierra stepside 4WD 350 crate motor, auto

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I'd like to have a 1972 or k5 blazer.. :0)

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Back in the 1970s I had a 1974 4WD suburban. Back when they were more like a pickup regarding the interior plainness of the day.  I drove it until it dropped at about 275,000 that included a lot of off road field work in my job.  Brad

I got wheel dollies from Harbor Freight. They work well. I can move cars by myself and I am tall, skinny and old.
I know an old truck will have some real metal but I suspect you will be okay with any of these.

quote:

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Originally posted by STUD figmo Al

quote:

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Originally posted by rinemb

??? I pulled up the nearly 50 year old carpet in the cab and hot reminder of some severe sheet metal rust through. It is where the toe board panel meets the floor. The widest gap may be two inches varying to one inch running along for about a foot or so. Though these panels are available I want to patch it. I will be covering the whole cab floor with a reproduction rubber flooring for this pickup.
…Any suggestions on the patching to regain some structural integrity and minimize air and dust flow into the cab? Thx. I will take a pic later.

---

Go to N.A.P.A. Auto parts..

N ask them about the body glue in the caulk tubes...

 

It is how all the new cars are put together now..

 

I still use pop rivets in conjunction with it..

 

Easy way..secure your sheet metal in with a few zap screws..the one at a time remove a zap screw..n put a pop rivets in its place..

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My pop riveter is hiding somewhere in my multi-drawer tool cabinet.  I found 3 boxes of rivets in the back of my pickup with cleaning it out.  brad