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quote:
Originally posted by lazlotothI got wheel dollies from Harbor Freight. They work well. I can move cars by myself and I am tall, skinny and old.
I know an old truck will have some real metal but I suspect you will be okay with any of these.
I will take a look. Upon re-examination of my concrete, I do have up to a 1" elevation break from the driveway concrete to garage floor concrete. I am medium, fat and old. will the dollies and me make it past the break? Brad
Edited by - rinemb on 10/28/2025 07:56:03
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Originally posted by OwenI guess it's not particularly elegant (?), and probably not something you'd want to do on a regular basis, but could you pull it in with a come-along?
And don't forget to close the [truck] door(s) before you push it out!!
A good suggestion. Since the doors do not turn on a light when opened, I do sometimes leave one open.
It’s been a good day. I tinkered for a couple weeks. Then yesterday jacked the whole truck up onto stands. The 4-5 days of all the wheel nuts drenched with liquid wrench and they all came off with only a bit of initial umph. Then finally went and bought a new battery and cabled it up.
A shot of starter down the carb, full choked her, hit the ignition while sliding the same foot onto the accelerator, and she fired up. As you can see in the first video, I did have a sloppy hiccup! Fixed it, and away ok blue ran. I feel like a kid again! Brad
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Originally posted by rinembMy vids too big. I need to reduce file sizes. Argghhh
I feel yer pain.... :0/
My sweet wife of 53 years offered to buy the new set of tires, all five. There is not any tire that could used as the spare. I am just putting on cheapies, for now or forever? 235/75R15's
Today perhaps some sheet metal fitting. It will be tricky to cut and fit. It will bend to tie toe board to floor board, and bend to cover lower portion of knee/side board.
Edited by - rinemb on 11/01/2025 05:56:20
These are the wheel covers that cover entire rim of my 15” steel rims. Neither are original to a 1952 Chevy pickup. I power scoured the rust off. A couple had 75% rust coating-including the chrome gone underneath, the other two not quite so bad. Keeping with a ratrod concept, my original intent was to prime them with gray primer-like my steel numbers keeping with the truck is the 1952 Korean War version lacking a lot of chrome.
But now I am wondering…Leave them like I have them now, or spray on a rust stabilizer them paint them? Brad pic to follow!
Edited by - rinemb on 11/03/2025 12:33:35
Not making a recommendation... just thinking out loud... A guy I know had just purchased an epoxy coating business [think commercial/garage/warehouse floors]; he was still learning about it and had some black-colored extra stuff mixed, so he applied it to an old brake rotor he spied laying in the yard ... rust and all; no scraping, brushing, etc.. Three, or maybe four, years on and it's still looks as it did on day one .... maybe more durable than powder coating.
quote:
Originally posted by OwenNot making a recommendation... just thinking out loud... A guy I know had just purchased an epoxy coating business [think commercial/garage/warehouse floors]; he was still learning about it and had some black-colored extra stuff mixed, so he applied it to an old brake rotor he spied laying in the yard ... rust and all; no scraping, brushing, etc.. Three, or maybe four, years on and it's still looks as it did on day one .... maybe more durable than powder coating.
Thanks for the suggestion. Brad
quote:
Originally posted by OwenNot making a recommendation... just thinking out loud... A guy I know had just purchased an epoxy coating business [think commercial/garage/warehouse floors]; he was still learning about it and had some black-colored extra stuff mixed, so he applied it to an old brake rotor he spied laying in the yard ... rust and all; no scraping, brushing, etc.. Three, or maybe four, years on and it's still looks as it did on day one .... maybe more durable than powder coating.
Yep. Epoxy is amazing. You can get a great epoxy coating that's brushable from these guys.
They also make an epoxy in dough form that can be shaped and molded.
quote:
Originally posted by rinembThese are the wheel covers that cover entire rim of my 15” steel rims. Neither are original to a 1952 Chevy pickup. I power scoured the rust off. A couple had 75% rust coating-including the chrome gone underneath, the other two not quite so bad. Keeping with a ratrod concept, my original intent was to prime them with gray primer-like my steel numbers keeping with the truck is the 1952 Korean War version lacking a lot of chrome.
But now I am wondering…Leave them like I have them now, or spray on a rust stabilizer them paint them? Brad pic to follow!
Pic
I am having my steel rims bead blasted using Lorac, a company I have used forever for bead blasting and powder coating. I am not having theses rims powder coated-mainly the $$ and the use. I will rattle can with rust stabilizer and primer then color coat. What color? Help me here. Eventually I will buy reproduction baby moons (with Chevy emblem) in Korean War finish-steel gray. So… paint rims black, or paint rims primer gray. Gray on black, or gray on gray? Brad
Too much time on me hands. My first coats of paint on my steel wheels were of a rust arrester black. I was going to stop there. Then I decided to paint them primer gray. I was going to stop there. Then I decided to paint them “Rugged Red” a machinery color. I am stopping there. Down the road I will add 1952 (Korean War Year) grey steel baby moons with black “Chevrolet” lettering.
One reason for red, it’s Marilyn’s Fave color. Another reason, I painted the entire interior red, back in 1974. Brad
How to reduce/stall/stabilize old paint from powdering. I am not sure if there is a modern "wipe-on" wax type product, or if some spray on clear coat is a better route? Its been so long since I have waxed my old truck-or any car, so I never look at the products anymore. brad
All suggestions are welcome.
Not much help, but ........... 'Way back [when I was trying to farm] I recall Farmshow Magazine carrying a story/promo on some such ^^ product.
I got this far https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?submit_search=1&keywords1=paint%20restore%20product&aid=20591&aid_previous=38338&aid_next=15807&page_num=1&nav_previous=1&nav_next=1 but ran out of "free searches."
However, I expect there's likely several "new-and-improved(s)" out there. Good luck.
quote:
Originally posted by Jon Borcherdingquote:
Originally posted by OwenNot making a recommendation... just thinking out loud... A guy I know had just purchased an epoxy coating business [think commercial/garage/warehouse floors]; he was still learning about it and had some black-colored extra stuff mixed, so he applied it to an old brake rotor he spied laying in the yard ... rust and all; no scraping, brushing, etc.. Three, or maybe four, years on and it's still looks as it did on day one .... maybe more durable than powder coating.
Yep. Epoxy is amazing. You can get a great epoxy coating that's brushable from these guys.
They also make an epoxy in dough form that can be shaped and molded.
That is a product I will keep in mind. Thx
quote:
Originally posted by OwenNot much help, but ........... 'Way back [when I was trying to farm] I recall Farmshow Magazine carrying a story/promo on some such ^^ product.
I got this far https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?submit_search=1&keywords1=paint%20restore%20product&aid=20591&aid_previous=38338&aid_next=15807&page_num=1&nav_previous=1&nav_next=1 but ran out of "free searches."
However, I expect there's likely several "new-and-improved(s)" out there. Good luck.
I read the article and appears to be an interesting product line. Thanks, Brad
Today is the first day Ol’ Blue has seen the sun. I washed off 15-20 years of blown-in dirt and made the first pass on the windows. As you may see, it’s going to take elbow grease or chemicals to remove the abundance of oxidation where there is still blue paint. The front grill was at one time red. I think I will repaint grill red to coordinate with the rims and interior. Brad
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