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Jul 13, 2026 - 1:46:24 PM
83 posts since 11/1/2016

I was thinking about how to straighten a bowed neck on vintage banjos with no truss rod.
Conventional method is either heat or take off fingerboard level neck and replace.
I wondered if instead it would be feasible to remove the rimstick clamp the neck straight in a suitable jig and drill a hole the length of the of the neck to take say a 3/8” steel rod set with resin slowly poured in, refit rimstick. Fantasy Island or feasible?
Be pleased to hear your thoughts.

Jul 13, 2026 - 2:30:01 PM
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lapsteel

Canada

1144 posts since 8/13/2015

You’ll never drill a straight hole that long. Your drill bit will wander and come out the side.

Jul 13, 2026 - 2:49:48 PM

991 posts since 2/19/2012

Also, I think a steel rod, especially a round one, would have to be such a large diameter to prevent bending that it would weigh a ton.

Jul 13, 2026 - 4:02:13 PM

banjonz

New Zealand

12869 posts since 6/29/2003

I have rarely seen a vintage banjo neck that hasn't got some form of bow in it. Some have ben straight though. Remember, the forces that cause the bow started the moment it was strung up, even with gut strings.
I have worked on a number of very old banjos here in NZ and the majority I use my heating rig and clamps.
One particular banjo refused to unbend so I heated the neck up with my heating rig and proceeded to remove the fretboard starting from the heel. As I approached the 3rd fret, the fretboard suddenly sprung off and flew across the workshop floor. Upon inspection, I found that the 3rd fret was actually binding on the neck wood below the fretboard (it wasn't very thick) and was under tension until I released it. Glued it back on and bobs your uncle.

Jul 13, 2026 - 6:46:39 PM

391 posts since 5/27/2008

If it's a forward bow, and the fingerboard is hard and in good shape, you might could try compression fretting. But unfortunately some old banjos have fingerboards that are deteriorating to some extent. Probably heat treating is the best bet.

Edited by - notty pine on 07/13/2026 18:48:21

Jul 14, 2026 - 12:15:14 PM
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2917 posts since 2/9/2007

Taking off the fingerboard seems simpler to me than what you're suggesting. Then, if you want some reinforcement, a spline of carbon fiber could add stiffness without adding weight, and would require removing a minimum of the original wood. If you'd rout a channel big enough for a standard truss rod, IMO that would create weak spots at the peghead angle and the thumb string peg, such that a little ding in the wrong spot could cause a real beeotch of a fracture.

Jul 14, 2026 - 1:48:05 PM

martyjoe

Ireland

940 posts since 3/24/2020

I have a fair bit of experience boring water mains in areas that can’t be open cut and then grouting them to keep them and the ground stable. It’s the same principle as you’re suggesting. The grout often doesn’t completely fill the void even after good planning and execution. I think you’re going to have the same issues. Plus we always expect the bore to veer off centre a bit. 

Edited by - martyjoe on 07/14/2026 13:50:25

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