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I am getting the mental courage to put my 52 Bow tie pickup back to road worthy (in town) driving. It has been idle for over a decade, as it has been in the past. I traded my motorcycle for it in 1973, so I could it to field camp in Colorado.
Due to costs and abilities, I am thinking along the “rat rod” go up.
As I have done before, but a long time ago, my first phase would be to:
Replace brakes, lines, and master cylinder.
Drain old gas and oil.
Clean the one barrel Rochester.
Replace plugs and clean gas pump.
New 6-volt battery.
Then pull the choke, stomp on the ignition and pump the gas pedal.
Then riff from there. My New Jim Carter Catalog is on the way.
I hope to wash and clean off the powdered paint surface and clear coat with flat or satin?
Many other things need attention!
Brad
Edited by - rinemb on 06/12/2026 06:59:10
Question: I am considering buying a set of 4 wheel Dollie’s to put under each tire so I can push it in and of the garage to work on it. I have a flat surface-with some cracks.
What do you think about these and can I move it by myself?
( please see pic)
I could buy a winch and attach it to the back of the garage to winch it back in if needed? Brad
My old engine plan was…
Find an old 50s 261 block and match it to a 235 head, and get an intake manifold for 3 sync’d Rochesters. Split the exhaust. And swap out the rear end gearing. Swap the tranny for Muncie 4-speed or similar, and convert to 12-volt. And replace the steering box and …………….$$$$……………$$$$………
quote:
Originally posted by Jon BorcherdingI don't get a vote, but if I did:
Hotrods are a dime a dozen. Leave that thing as close to original/stock as you possibly can.
Voting is not necessary, but all comments are certainly welcome. Thx
Pull the plugs and inspect for rust if you didn't fog the cylinders back then. Still, you'll want to pour a little oil in each cylinder and hand crank the engine to lubricate rings and walls before starting.
But yeah, clean fuel system...new plugs and battery...maybe new accessory belt and check to ensure all pulleys turn....and see if she fires up before doing anything else. Good luck.
quote:
Originally posted by rinembAnyone have a 261 gm motor laying around, often found in the old busses, grain trucks, etc. early fifties versions are about a drop in! Or I thought of a 283 motor. Brad
Nope, but I have a 2.8 l. .... supposedly 7,000 km. on a rebuild /compression tests good / a bit of oil in cylinders and a few revs regularly over the 25 years I've owned it ..... can't even give it away around here. ![]()
Also an AT; same price as ^^, or could do a 2-for-the-price-of-one deal. ![]()
I’ve had two 49s and one ‘54. The ‘54 grill is not my favorite. One of the 49’s was stock the other had a 455 in it…which kept overheating. 235 is better than a 216 in my opinion.
I now have a ‘64 f100 with 56k on it. All original, a no option short bed.
Nice old chevys that are stock original are the best! Good luck with it!
This site https://www.slashgear.com/1715635/chevy-5-window-pickup-trucks-history-years-made/ says 1947 to early 1955.
But more importantly what's the size of the "regular" back window?
[Fwiw, I'm still deciding on window replacement/upgrade/?? for the SurfSide. When I asked my lovely and talented assistant about "corner windows," she rejected it right off. "Why? / Why not?" / "Because I have to lean there when I read in bed." / "You can lean on the window." / "No I can't." .... I guess the universe is unfolding as it should.
]
quote:
Originally posted by rinembI am getting the mental courage to put my 52 Bow tie pickup back to road worthy (in town) driving.
Many other things need attention!
I use "Chev's of the 40's" for hard to get (conversion stuff or what to look for). They are solid, and local for me...
"American Classics" in Vancouver, WA is a good wrecking yard that specializes in unobtainiam. Also a solid group that speaks the language.
https://www.allamericanclassics.com/used-parts-inventory-search-classic-american-cars.html
Edited by - pinenut on 10/20/2025 12:42:47
quote:
Originally posted by rinemb
Drain old gas and oil.
STRONG WARNING:
The old engines are not compatible with the new automotive oils that lack shear protection for the cam lobes and the rest. Modern oil will consume older engines that lack roller rockers and ball bearings in a very short time (~few thousand miles).
Use Diesel type 15w40 (Delo, Rotella, etc) in these older engines; it has the necessary ingredients.
quote:
Originally posted by rinembMy old engine plan was…
Find an old 50s 261 block and match it to a 235 head, and get an intake manifold for 3 sync’d Rochesters. Split the exhaust. And swap out the rear end gearing. Swap the tranny for Muncie 4-speed or similar, and convert to 12-volt. And replace the steering box and …………….$$$$……………$$$$………
I thought the holy grail was getting an S10 five speed and V6 for the swap?
quote:
Originally posted by BuddurPull the plugs and inspect for rust if you didn't fog the cylinders back then. Still, you'll want to pour a little oil in each cylinder and hand crank the engine to lubricate rings and walls before starting.
But yeah, clean fuel system...new plugs and battery...maybe new accessory belt and check to ensure all pulleys turn....and see if she fires up before doing anything else. Good luck.
That is what I used Marvelous Mystery Oil for in the past. May have to buy a fresh can?
Edited by - rinemb on 10/20/2025 17:03:20
quote:
Originally posted by chuckv97Not sure if that's a '52 , but those were nice pickups. I remember some models had a little curved window going around behind the side window.
Mine was the "Korean War" version. No curved windows, no chrome. Brad
quote:
Originally posted by pinenutquote:
Originally posted by rinemb
Drain old gas and oil.STRONG WARNING:
The old engines are not compatible with the new automotive oils that lack shear protection for the cam lobes and the rest. Modern oil will consume older engines that lack roller rockers and ball bearings in a very short time (~few thousand miles).
Use Diesel type 15w40 (Delo, Rotella, etc) in these older engines; it has the necessary ingredients.
Good info. Thx
quote:
Originally posted by Jon BorcherdingI don't get a vote, but if I did:
Hotrods are a dime a dozen. Leave that thing as close to original/stock as you possibly can.
Good thought Jon , but keep it safe & road worthy
Dime a dozen ? In your dreams !
My advice… go rat rod! This was my project 40 years ago. It was mint, and once I got it done, I hated driving it, or parking it anywhere, for fear it might get one little ding, dirty, or heaven forbid, water spots. I got so sick of trying to keep it perfect, that I sold it, and have never drivin a show, or even nice, car since. Had I kept it a rat rod, I would still be driving it.
quote:
Originally posted by pinenutquote:
Originally posted by rinemb
Drain old gas and oil.STRONG WARNING:
The old engines are not compatible with the new automotive oils that lack shear protection for the cam lobes and the rest. Modern oil will consume older engines that lack roller rockers and ball bearings in a very short time (~few thousand miles).
Use Diesel type 15w40 (Delo, Rotella, etc) in these older engines; it has the necessary ingredients.
I did not know that! I have not run the truck in maybe 15 years? but up to then I was adding oil regularly. Usually a straight 20 or 30wt? Brad
quote:
Originally posted by Dean TMy advice… go rat rod! This was my project 40 years ago. It was mint, and once I got it done, I hated driving it, or parking it anywhere, for fear it might get one little ding, dirty, or heaven forbid, water spots. I got so sick of trying to keep it perfect, that I sold it, and have never drivin a show, or even nice, car since. Had I kept it a rat rod, I would still be driving it.
That was a nice pickup. I drooled over Steve Korps red pickup, he would park regularly at the old depot above Douglas. He was my chief advisor back when I was going to really fix it up. Unfortunately he is no longer with us.
That is kind of what I am thinking, (regarding your comment) along with $$ priorities.
BTW: Do you know of any competent garage mechanics that can help me out a bit with repairs etc. in our area? Thanks, Brad
Brad…I haven’t taken a car to a shop for extensive work, in many many years… but when I did, I always had great service from Unru, at Woodlawn and Harry, and the small muffler shop at MtVernon and Oliver. Now that I live in North Wichita, I don’t even know of either is still in business. I lived near the shop at Mt Vernon and Oliver, and they always had antique cars there for service, and often had one or more out front, for sale.
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